About This Winemaker:
The Coches farm almost nine hectares of vineyards on minuscule parcels over six communes: Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses, Monthelie, and Volnay. Approximately half of their holdings are situated around their hometown of Meursault, with their parcels of Bourgogne surrounding the home and winery.
No clones of any kind are planted – an absolute rarity in Burgundy, where cold, humid winters, spontaneous springtime hail storms, and harvest rains all make farming a challenge. Once in the cellar, vinifications are long and traditional, with extended lees contact. This extra time on the lees prevents oxidation and works in tandem with the terrific freshness his grapes achieve. A good proportion of new wood is used, not to influence the taste of the wine, but rather to extend the cellar-aging potential of these pedigreed wines and to serve as a clean slate for perfect fruit.
Coche believes strongly that the white wines of Burgundy should have nerve, and his are never among the ripest or highest in alcohol of his colleagues. It is their vibrant acidity, often hidden in the opulence that helps them to age so successfully and predictably. Though their bottlings are extremely limited, any chance to taste the wines of Coche-Dury promises a rare glimpse into some of the greatest vineyard management and winemaking in the world.
Ratings & Reviews
90 Points – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate:
“The 1997 Meursault is a similar showing to the example that Raphael Coche opened when I visited back in January 2014. Perhaps the only slight difference is that the nose is a little more oxidative than the previous bottle, but there is still that lovely balance with fine acidity and that live-wire, honeysuckle finish. Commendable for the vintage, although I would drink bottles sooner rather than later.” – Neal Martin (30th Oct 2014)
Allen Meadows’ Burghound:
“It had been some years since I last had the opportunity to try this and time has been relatively kind to it, particularly when you consider how the average ’97 has held up, which is to say not especially well. The fully mature nose speak of petrol, ripe yellow orchard fruit along with hints of acacia blossom. The round, lush and easy medium weight flavors possess reasonably good depth on the delicious, sappy and lingering finale. While the balance is holding it seems clear that it would be better to drink this up sooner than later as I suspect that a decline is imminent.” – (Oct 13, 2015)
89 Points – Antonio Galloni’s Vinous:
“Spicy aromas of red berries. Impressively concentrated and powerful for a village Meursault, with harmonious acidity giving the wine lovely freshness for a ’97.” – Stephen Tanzer (Sep 1999)
Reviews
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